The Writing Traveler: On the Road with Hellfire and Brimstone

The radio studio of powerful XERF on the lonely desert lands of Mexico. Photo: PopBopRockTilUDrop.

They were the original religious pitchmen of radio. And, Lord, they were good at prying the last dime out of an aging widow’s coin purse.

They were preaching hard truths, and the spirit was moving, and the power was falling, and the long midnight highway of South Texas stretched out before us as dark as a night being born. We had driven for miles and miles and seen nothing but miles and miles, and the only distant sign of life was a dead armadillo by the side of the road.

The little towns had closed down, shuttered their windows, and the gas stations had all locked their gas pumps. The white lines on the highway cut through the brush country where cattle fed on mesquite beans when times were hard, and most of the beans were already gone.

One radio station played out, then another. Most stations did not last too far past the city limit sign in a land where the world was flat and could prove it. Music – good, bad, or otherwise – was scarce and lost somewhere on the ragged edge of static that played across the countryside like frayed streaks of dry lightning.

But the preachers were loud and clear on 1570 AM.

They were sucking air, chastising the devil, washing away sin, healing the afflicted, and, at the drop of a hat, always willing to pray for pay.

The hard truths were coming out of the three-hundred-foot towers of XERF Radio, reaching far above the adobe huts of Ciudad Acuna, Mexico, and blasting the border with 250,000 watts of pure, raw, and unadulterated power that reached, some said, from Canada to South America.

Land was flat.

Hell was hot.

Land was empty.

Brimstone was crackling.

The devil had to run hard and fast to stay ahead of 250,000 watts.

The preachers were never far behind.

But wait.

Caleb Pirtle

They may have been preaching hard truths against old Lucifer, but they weren’t after him.

They were after my money.

They were the original religious pitchmen of radio. And, Lord, they were good at prying the last dime out of an aging widow’s coin purse.

One was peddling autographed pictures of Jesus Christ for a dollar.

He may be lying, I told my sidekick, photographer Gerald Crawford.

You think?

Well, he sorta was, and he sorta wasn’t.

I squeezed out a buck and ordered the picture of Jesus Christ, and, sure enough, it was autographed.

The preacher or one of his minions had scrawled his glorified name across the bottom of the glossy 8 X 10.

Another gravel-voiced airwaves evangelist had just returned from the Holy Land and was offering thimbles of water from the River Jordan and splinters from the cross.

He may be lying, I told my sidekicks.

You think?

Well, he sorta was, and he sorta wasn’t.

I ordered the splinters.

And, sure enough, the preacher sent me splinters.

Probably from a cross.

He just never did say which cross.

One preacher suggested that we put five dollars in an envelope and send a new envelope every three days, and he would send us his Holy Ghost-filled “all points emergency prosperity package.”

God don’t want you poor, he said.

God wants to make you rich.

His “all points emergency prosperity package” would make you rich.

He may be lying, I told my sidekicks.

You think?

Well, he sorta was, and he sorta wasn’t.

I stuck five dollars in an envelope and shipped it off to his post office box number.

He sent me back the numbers to play in the lottery.

God had the lottery rigged.

The preacher may not have been lying, but he had misplaced the truth.

We marveled at the number of times an air-sucking preacher – without blinking, hesitating, or even having second thoughts – could slip his name and mailing address into his sermon.

Brother Al, Post Office Box 536, Fredonia, California, had no equal.

Then.

Or now.

In six minutes, he had given us his name and address seven times without missing a beat or catching his breath.

On air, somewhere within the shadows of XERF, Ciudad Acuna, he began to pray for a poor man afflicted with a crippling disease. He said as the choir hummed softly in the background, “Lord, I’m placing my hands on this dear brother. Lord, honor these hands. These hands belong to Brother Al, Post Office Box 536, Fredonia, California.”

And the night was as dark as it had been in a long time. The road rolled on forever, long and straight. And the skies crackled with lightning from XERF.

You could almost smell the sulfur in the air.

Please click HERE to find many of my stories about fascinating places and people in Confessions from the Road on Amazon.

, , , , , , , , ,

Related Posts